Ryan, Andre, and John embarked on a photography tour of Bandhavgarh, sharing their experiences of thrilling encounters with diverse wildlife, breathtaking landscapes, exciting safaris, and valuable photography tips that enhanced their appreciation for nature.
Report By: Mr. Sudhir Sharma
Three Great friends decided to take Photography tour of Bandhavgarh from 10 April 24 to 17 April 24. The planning started in November 23. Recent year experience taught us not to take safaris in one park if you going for week time. Due to climate change it rains twice a month all the year around. So, we suggested them to take Panna national park for 02 nights. Ryan agreed to our suggestion. Itinerary was finalized, safaris were booked.
10 April 24:
Ryan, Andre & John landed at Jabalpur airport in the afternoon. The flight was delayed by 15 minutes. After receiving from the airport started driving to Panna. Jabalpur Panna is approximately five hours. We reached our resort by 08:30 pm. we took a tea break on the way.
11 April 24 Morning: Madla zone great start with two sub adults’ cubs of T151.
The Central Indian parks have good timing for opening & closing. The morning shifts are longer than afternoon shifts. We started from hotel around 05:15 am. All our safaris were confirmed in Madla zone which is the prime zone of Panna.
Mr. Ryan & Mr. Andre are good photographers and Mr. John believes in experiencing the things.
This is Ryan’s second time in India with wildlife destination. Previously he went to Jim Corbett. He
told me that he took 05 safaris in Jim Corbett and got two sightings of tigers.
After entering the park, we found two sub adult cubs of T151 beside road. The light was low. Soon
Sun came & later only cameras sound was heard. The cubs moved to change their positions which
gave us some opportunity to make some videos as well.
After some time, we got information by other guide that two sub adult other cubs of T151 were sitting on a hill about 20 meters from the road. It was little bit far & we rushed to that point. As soon as we reached that spot, we saw them moving inside. They were dragging some old kill. We saw them with naked eye but failed to take ay photo as they were moving away from us constantly. Actually, Sunlight has reached up to them & they decided to move in shader place. Soon they vanished from our sight.
Age of these sub adult cubs is around 18 months.
11 April 24 Afternoon: Madla zone with leopard in afternoon & same two sub adults cubs of T151.
In the afternoon we entered the park around 03:30 pm. We searched the same place where cubs were sighted in the morning but due to high temperature they might had moved to river bed side. The Ken rivers which flow parallel to Panna National Park is perineal rivers which offers great habitat to tigers. The river has many green patches of Black berry trees where tigers love spends hot time of the day in summer.
Our guide Manoj Dwivedi (15 years), decided to take around of territory of T141. This winter season T151 was seen in matting with two or three males’ tigers. Her previous liter was mature enough to survive so they left her. It is normally observed that cubs stay with mother up to 2 and ½ years until they become fit to survive alone.
Her sightings were low so it is assumed that she might be pregnant. Once a tigress conceives, then she starts searching safe place for the cubs & delivery. This is time she is not seen & confined to much remote area of park where even our jeeps cannot go.
After there we moved to Vultures point. While driving to Vultures’ point a jeep going ahead of us saw a leopard. It crossed the road & went into side stream. We & other jeeps too waited for some time. Later Manoj told us that this looard may go to the Vultures point. By noise of jeep the leopard did not move. All jeeps came to Vultures point. We were in doing photography of vultures in bright day light. Suddenly the same leopard appeared on the back side of vultures. What a guess by Manoj!
Panna’s terrain is three-tiered plateau so sighting of leopard was easy. Thin forest made good photographs of leopard possible.
While returning after leopard sighting, we find the same two sub adult cubs with some distance from the morning positions. It is believed that wild life is active either in early morning or late evening. This time one the cub just crossed behind our jeep.
11 April 24 Evening: Night safari in Jhinna Zone with two leopards.
If you ever have a chance for night safari in Panna, then do not miss it. Jhinna buffer zone offers great sightings of leopards & sloth bears. Our 80% clients saw leopard there. Guides try their best to show you something. You cannot take photographs by 600 mm Lense but a different experience.
We saw two leopards. one was walking away & the other was eating a kill. he was siting behind the kill so only its eyes were seen while he was tearing flesh from the kill.
12 April 24 Morning: Madla zone no sights due to bad weather.
This morning from no where clouds came on & covered the whole park. But we were ok as we got some good stuff on day one. We did not see sunlight during our stay in the park from 05:45 am to 10:30 am duration. After leaving the park went to hotel had lunch left for our next destination Bandhavgarh. After driving for 04 hrs. with tea break, we reached our next resort.
13 April Moring: Tala zone with two tigers one male & female from same liter.
Tala is one of the beautiful zones of Bandhavgarh & with large grasslands it is no doubt one of the best habitats for tigers. The spring water coming from mountain all around adds glamour to this place. This park once used to have highest density of tigers in India. I am taking clients to Bandhavgarh since 2002, and seen 04 or 05 different tigers sharing same water hole. This is the uniqueness of Tala zone & Bandhavgarh.
Our guide Ayodhya is one of the best & experience guides. His trekking skills are marvelous beside birding. We met Ayodhya at gate Tala zone. He decides to take around of Chakradhara area in tala. Some jeeps we saw were waiting at side of stream & the tigress was sleeping in the grass. The light was perfect & suddenly Chakradhara female’s daughter stood up from the dark green grass & moved towards the other side. Great start from Tala in first safari. Some really good pictures were taken by our guests. This sighting went on for 20 minutes.
Later we decide to check other tigers in tala zone away from Chakradhara area. We drove for next one hours & finally reached the center point. In central Indian parks as I said morning safaris are 05 hrs long so one has to take pack breakfast in safari. Centre place is the point with toilets & small
6-Day Panna + Bandhavgarh Photo Plan
Want a compact tiger photo trip like Ryan, Andre & John?
We can design a focused 6-day Panna + Bandhavgarh photography expedition: 2 nights in Panna (Madla zone + night safari) and 3–4 nights in Bandhavgarh (Tala, Khitauli, Magdhi), targeting tigers, cubs, leopards and behavior shots. Share your preferred dates, lens setup, photography level and budget, and we will suggest a practical route, zone strategy and stay options.
We can help you plan:
✓ Multi-zone Panna and Bandhavgarh safaris for tigers, cubs and leopards ✓ Night safari in Panna and zone selection for photography ✓ Jabalpur transfers, guides and stay options near key gates
Safari zones, park availability and wildlife sightings are subject to current official rules and seasonal conditions. We will adjust the plan to match your priorities and time.
shops where you can have tea. We had our breakfast & later started coming back towards entry gate.
Just as we entered the chakradhara area (same route is followed) we heard a strong alarming call of Monkey. The calls were intense and forced us to check the area. As it is big grass land so was difficult to check the whole patch. Ayodhya took his binocular & tried to locate the monkey who’s calling continuously. He found that monkey was constantly looking at the base of Big Bayana tree. Suddenly he found the tiger & we were able to see him. Not sure if Ryan was able to make any photos even by 600 mm Lense due little far. But it added to our tigers’ tally definitely.
13 April afternoon: Tala zone with two tiger’s same female of morning & Bajrang male.
In the afternoon safari our zone was same as morning so we were pretty sure of seeing same tigers once again. We rushed to that area checked the for male which we missed for photographs. But that guy was sleeping deep inside. Later we moved to point where we left Chakradhara female. During the day time tigers avoid hot places & move to deeper & colder areas which stream water flows.After waiting for some time, we saw female tigress walking on side of the road. Good sightings weredone.
Later we found Bajrang (dominant male) of chakradhara area. He was sleeping beside the road under big tree. He is quite used to vehicles & can walk with 30 Jeeps. He once decides to cross the road then we cannot stop him to do so. He is the real boss of Tala zone.
All of sudden the weather changed & it started raining heavy. A big thunder storm in the Month of April is best manifestation of climate change. But we are not ready to accept it.
The wind was so strong that we decided to leave the park. In total the first day in Tala zone was great!
14 April 24 Morning: Zone Khitauli with Huge leopard.
The previous heavy rain alarmed us for less chances of tiger sightings. So, we started for new zone. Khitauli has more bamboo trees patches in its vegetation. But it is home for two or three tigresses with cubs. Here greenery is less to Tala zone.
We started to check the area of Tara tigress. She got new three cubs recently but was nit seen by any tourist’s jeep. The cubs are supposed to be 02 to 03 months old.
As it was cloudy, no sun even then we drove fast to check Tara’s territory. Suddenly we heard monkey giving alarming calls. We stopped for a while to check it proper direction. All of sudden Ryan spotted a huge leopard moving fast some 15 meters from road. He was really walking very fast. But got see it completely. Our only jeep was there. Later other jeeps came but they were unable to see it.
After seeing leopard, we decided to check other female called Darrah female with cubs. The weather as I told you was not clear but still, we need to take chance. That area is about 01 ;30 hrs. drive from Tara’s territory. Other jeeps who came from Darrah side told us about pugmarks so we do want to check it as we had seen the exclusive leopard.
We spent good time in Darrah female’s area but didn’t spot her. Although there were few calls by spotted deer’s which kept us waiting in that area. Later we moved to Centre point for breakfast.
At Centre point when we met other jeeps, we came to know that Tara & her cubs were seen by three jeeps just near by the leopard place. We missed the Tara’s first sighting with new cubs.
The mistake Me & Ayodhya committed was that we might have checked Tara’s areas again when we did not find other jeeps in Darrah female’s area. We should have waited much time for Darrah female.
Bandhavgarh is place with different soil texture & water logging conditions are not observed there. Which means a tiger can even move after rain. This is very rare in other parks. I have seen many times tiger in Bandhavgarh after rains.
14 April 24 Afternoon: Zone Khitauli with Chota Bheem huge male tiger.
Me & Ayodhya were little depressed After missing Tara & family in the morning. We directly reached to the morning spot where Tara was sighted near the check post. But guards told us that she crossed the checked & moved to buffer zone which is hardly 15 minutes’ walk for tiger.
Then we decided to check every water point of Khitauli zone. As we reached Van Taliya water point, we found Chota Bheem tiger cooling himself inside the little pond. He is as bold as Bajrang & dominant the Khitauli zone.
15 April morning: Khitauli zone with D1 male tiger.
This morning our zone booked in advance was Magdhi but we requested to ranger to make it Khitauli as we wanted to take one more chance for Tara & rectify our mistake. The ranger officer obliged us & change our zone to Khitauli.
We again rushed to Tara’s territory but no sign of moment was there. We decided to move on. As were moving on hilly terrain suddenly Sambhar ‘s warning call came. We stopped for a while & try to locate it. that was sambhar deer was moving towards a stream down valley. We followed the direction of call & reached at the base of the stream. We checked the whole stream both side with binoculars. Later Ayodhya spotted tiger D1(male) sleeping in the middle of the stream about 500 meters.
There was a water pocket beside tiger & that sambhar want to come to drink water but did not dare after seeing the tiger. This is how warning call from Sambhar deer helped us to see tiger. Sambhar deer’s & Monkeys call are most reliable calls for any predator. Their calls mark the presence of any predator within 50 meters diameter.
15 April 24 Afternoon: Magdhi zone with Dotty’s Daughter & Tuskars.
Magdhi is third core zone of Bandhavgarh beside Khitauli & Tala. This zone two years back has more tiger moment & sightings. But now dotty ‘s cubs are al grown up so they intend to live separately so sighted less. So, this year there were less sightings so we focused on Khitauli & Tala only.
Before entering the park, we went up to the main bridge. There was DM (Dhamhokhar male) male tiger sleeping under the tree in stream. We did not stop more there & went to Magdhi zone gate. He is mostly seen at spot from the main tar road.
After entering the park & driving for 45 minutes we spotted one young female tigress from Dotty’ last liter. This new tigress seems to be as bold as her mother. Good photos were taken. We spent about 01;30 hrs around her. she corssed the road & sat on the bank of water body meant for drinking water for animals. There are many made water pockets in side park which filled by tankers to keep tigers inside the park. We need three things to keep tigers inside the park. They are food (herbivores) water & cover (grasslands).
Time to leave the park was approaching so we left her & started driving towards the gate. Suddenly Wild elephants’ small group with calf’s came on the main road just in front our jeep. They did not allow us. So, we decided to take another road towards gate.
16 April Morning: Khitauli zone with No sightings.
This was our second last safari of the trip. We were excited for more action with tigers. This safari we did not have any luck. Meanwhile we focused on birds’ photography as well.
16 April 24 Afternoon: Tala Zone with Chakradhara Female 01 & 04 cubs.
This afternoon safari was the final safari in Tala zone. Ayodhya collected information from morning safari guides who went to Tala this morning. He found that Chakradhara female 01 was sighted by one jeep while leaving the park in the morning shift. Cubs foot prints were also noted. This tigress is not the same tigress that we saw in the very first drive in Tala zone. This tigress is Senior hen the first one but lives around Sita mandap area, very hilly terrain.
We drove to territory & start waiting for her. Suddenly around 04;30 pm we saw tigress coming down from the hill towards us. There were two cubs with her also. They were quite small (03 months) so they were getting down very slowly behind their mother. This area is valley with one side stream. Every one was trying to see other cubs. Soon tigress started growling for other cubs. These other two cubs were on the Other side of them in stream. They also responded by cute sound. Then tigress with two cubs crossed the road & went in the stream to collect two others cubs. Later whole family crossed again from our back side climb the hills.
This was our best experience with such tiny cubs in the last safari. All our prayers were accepted by Goddess Durga & compensated the loss of Tara & her cubs sighting.
17 April 24: No Safari.
Today we dropped Ryan, Andre & John to Jabalpur airport to take flight to Delhi. Andre & John, they fly back home same night from Delhi. Ryan went to Nepal & Bhutan.
Photography Expedition Debrief
Want a 6-day Panna + Bandhavgarh photo trip like Ryan, Andre & John?
We can design a focused photography expedition with 2 nights in Panna (Madla zone + night safari) and 3–4 nights in Bandhavgarh (Tala, Khitauli, Magdhi), targeting tigers, cubs, leopards and behavior shots. Share your preferred dates, lens setup, photography level and budget, and we will suggest a practical route, zone strategy and stay options.
We can help you plan:
✓ Multi-zone Panna and Bandhavgarh safaris for tigers, cubs and leopards ✓ Night safari in Panna and zone selection for photography ✓ Transfers, guides and stay options near key gates
Safari zones, park availability and wildlife sightings are subject to current official rules and seasonal conditions. We will adjust the plan to match your priorities and time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a 6-day Panna + Bandhavgarh trip enough for good tiger photography?
Yes. Ryan, Andre and John’s 6-day expedition delivered multiple tigers, cubs, leopards and elephants across Panna and Bandhavgarh. With smart zone selection and multiple safaris, a short trip can be very productive for photography.
Why combine Panna and Bandhavgarh instead of one park only?
Combining two parks spreads the risk of bad weather and low sightings. Panna offers night safaris and different terrain, while Bandhavgarh provides high-density tiger zones like Tala, Khitauli and Magdhi.
How many safaris are ideal in a 6-day trip like this?
For a focused photography trip, 5–6 morning and afternoon safaris plus one night safari in Panna works well. This gives multiple chances in different zones and times of day.
Which zones are best for tigers and cubs in Panna and Bandhavgarh?
In Panna, Madla zone is the prime area for tigers and cubs. In Bandhavgarh, Tala, Khitauli and Magdhi are the main core zones, each with different terrain and tiger families.
Is night safari in Panna worth it for photographers?
Yes. Jhinna buffer zone in Panna offers excellent night sightings of leopards and sloth bears. While long lenses are less useful at night, the experience and behavior shots are unique.
When is the best time for a Panna + Bandhavgarh photo trip?
For tiger photography, March to June is usually best. For comfortable weather and good birdlife, October to March works well. We will suggest dates based on your priorities and park conditions.
What if it rains during the trip?
Rain can reduce sightings on some days, as seen in this trip. A multi-park plan and multiple safaris help compensate. Bandhavgarh’s soil drains well, so tigers can still move after rain.
Is this trip suitable for mixed groups (photographers + experience-focused travelers)?
Yes. Ryan and Andre focused on photography, while John preferred experiencing the moment. The itinerary can balance long waits for shots with relaxed drives and general wildlife viewing.
What other wildlife can we expect besides tigers?
In Panna and Bandhavgarh you can see leopards, sloth bears, wild elephants, gaur, sambar, spotted deer, nilgai, crocodiles and a rich variety of birds.
How do I start planning a similar 6-day Panna + Bandhavgarh trip?
Share your preferred travel window, number of days, tiger-park priorities, photography level and budget range. We will propose a custom route, safari zones and stay options, then refine it together.
